Types of Dress Shoes for Men: Oxford, Derby, Monk, and More

Every sharp outfit lands at the shoes, and the style you pick sets the whole tone. The good news is that a handful of classics cover almost any occasion, from a black-tie wedding to a smart office day.
Here is a clear guide to the main types of dress shoes for men, ranked by formality, with the color rules and the pairings that matter.
Here's what this guide walks through, step by step:
- How dress shoe formality and color work
- Oxford vs Derby, the classic lace-ups
- Monk straps, brogues, and loafers
- How to pair your shoes with your suit
How Dress Shoe Formality and Color Work
Dress shoes sit on a formality scale, from the sleek Oxford at the top to slip-on loafers lower down. Here is the quick view before the details.
Oxford: Closed lacing and the most formal option. Best for black tie and formal weddings.
Derby: Open lacing with a formal-to-business feel. Best for the office and most suits.
Monk strap: Features a buckle-and-strap closure with a semi-formal look. Best for business attire and standout looks.
Brogue or wingtip: Features perforated detailing and a smart-casual feel. Best for daytime events and lighter suits.
Loafer: A slip-on style with a smart-casual feel. Best for summer and more relaxed dressing.
The Formality Scale
Closure is the quickest tell of how formal a shoe is.
- Closed lacing and plain toes read the most formal
- Buckles, perforations, and slip-on styles read more casual
- Condition matters as much as style, so keep leather clean
Black, Brown, and White
Color is the other half of the equation.
- Black is the formal default, right for black tie and evening
- Brown is the versatile all-rounder for most suits
- White dress shoes are a bold, warm-weather statement, best kept for casual or fashion-forward looks
Dressing as a guest? Our wedding guest suit guide pairs shoes with the whole outfit.
Oxford vs Derby, the Classic Lace-Ups
The two staple lace-ups look similar but differ in one key detail, and that detail sets the formality.
Oxford Shoes
The Oxford is the most formal dress shoe, defined by closed lacing.
- The lace flaps are stitched under the front for a sleek line
- A plain black cap-toe is the black-tie standard
- The clean silhouette suits suits, tuxedos, and formal weddings
Derby Shoes
The Derby is the more relaxed, more versatile cousin, defined by open lacing.
- The lace flaps sit on top, giving a roomier fit
- It carries a suit and dresses down with chinos as easily
- A dark brown Derby is one of the most useful shoes to own
Monk Straps, Brogues, and Loafers
Past the lace-ups, a few styles add character while staying office-ready.
Monk Strap Shoes
Monk strap shoes swap laces for a buckle and strap, landing between an Oxford and a Derby.
- Single strap is a touch more formal than double
- Brown pairs cleanly with a navy suit or blazer
- A standout pick when you want to break from the crowd
Brogues and Wingtips
Broguing is the decorative perforation added to a shoe, not a shoe on its own.
- Full brogues, or wingtips, have a wing-shaped, perforated toe
- More perforation means a more casual, daytime look
- Great with lighter suits in linen, tweed, or gray
Loafers
Loafers are the slip-on option, easy and smart-casual.
- Penny, tassel, and bit styles cover most tastes
- Polished leather can carry a lighter suit
- Best for summer events and relaxed dress codes
How to Pair Your Shoes With Your Suit
The last step is tying the shoes into the rest of the look. Generation Tux delivers premium suits and tuxedos to your door and rents shoes and socks to complete the outfit.
Match by Color and Occasion
Let the dress code lead the pairing.
- Black Oxford for black tie and formal evening weddings
- Brown Derby or monk strap for most cocktail and daytime suits
- Match your belt and your watch strap to your shoes
For a tux, our guide to tuxedo styles for 2026 helps you choose the shoe.
Rent the Whole Look
Coordinating footwear with a suit is simple online.
- Build a look from the suit and tuxedo collection
- Answer a few questions to Find Your Fit, backed by a fit guarantee
- Your order arrives 14 days before the event, with free replacements
For the finer points of the suit itself, see how your suit should fit.
Build Your Look With the Right Shoes
Ready to put your look together? Explore our suit and tuxedo collection and find your perfect fit in minutes. Renting for a wedding party? The groom rents free with 5 paid rentals.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the main types of dress shoes for men?
The core styles are the Oxford, Derby, monk strap, brogue or wingtip, and loafer. Oxfords are the most formal, Derbies the most versatile, monk straps a stylish middle ground, brogues a daytime option, and loafers the relaxed slip-on.
What is the difference between Oxford and Derby shoes?
The difference is the lacing. Oxfords have closed lacing, where the flaps are stitched under the front for a sleek, formal line. Derbies have open lacing, where the flaps sit on top, giving a roomier fit and a slightly more casual, versatile look.
Are monk strap shoes formal?
Monk straps sit between an Oxford and a Derby in formality. The buckle makes them a little less formal than a plain Oxford but dressier than most Derbies. Single-strap styles read more formal, while double straps add a bolder, standout touch.
What color dress shoes should I buy first?
Start with a dark brown pair, since brown pairs with more suit colors and suits most occasions. Add black next for black tie and formal evening events. Between the two, you cover nearly every dress code you're likely to meet.
Can you wear white dress shoes to a wedding?
White dress shoes are a bold, warm-weather choice that works best at casual or fashion-forward weddings. For formal or black-tie weddings, a black Oxford or a brown Derby is the safer call, since white can pull focus from the rest of the look.
What dress shoes go with a tuxedo?
A black patent or polished black Oxford is the classic tuxedo shoe. The closed lacing and clean toe match the formality of black tie. Keep the leather sharp and skip heavy broguing, which reads too casual next to a tux.

Generation Tux Team
At Generation Tux, our team of researchers, content strategists, editors, and reviewers collaboratively ensure that our formalwear insights and advice are top-notch, helping customers look their best for life’s key moments. We are committed to delivering an exceptional, informed, and seamless experience from start to finish.
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